Lamb shoulder – the poorer, less desirable cousin of the leg – has a reputation for being tricky to cook and laborious. In fact, the shoulder has to be one the most forgiving and versatile meats – and by far the most delicious.
To make the most of its amazing qualities, marinate the lamb for a few hours and then slow-cook the meat. Over time, the layers of fat reduce to sticky, unctuous, lip-smacking perfection and help keep the meat moist, so it’s great to reinvent the next day and beyond ...
The main event: Slow-cooked Moorish spiced lamb shoulder with buttermilk and coriander (pictured above)
North African-style spicing works so well with lamb. I do this in an oven and on a barbecue too – both work incredibly well and both benefit from a good long marinade – preferably overnight.
Serves 6-7
1 lamb shoulder (about 3kg), bone in, fat side scored with a very sharp knife
50ml olive oil
3 tbsp smoked paprika
4 tbsp coriander seeds, crushed
2 tbsp ground cumin
8 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
50ml red wine vinegar
Salt and black pepper
For the dressing
100ml buttermilk
20ml white wine vinegar
½ bunch fresh coriander, chopped
1 Lay out a large double layer of foil and put the lamb on top. Pour the oil over the meat, then rub in plenty of seasoning, the paprika, coriander, cumin and garlic. Then drizzle with vinegar. Massage the spices into the meat. Wrap up the foil to completely cover, then put into the fridge for at least 5 hours, or overnight.
2 Heat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Roast the lamb on an oven tray for 2 hours with the foil on. Remove the foil, baste the meat with juices and cook for 1 hour longer to caramelise. Check the meat – you should be able to easily pull the flesh away from the bone. If it is still firm, turn the temperature down to 150C/300F/gas mark 2 and cook for a further 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and let it rest for 30 minutes.
3 Meanwhile, whisk together all the dressing ingredients. Season to taste.
4 Remove the bone, then serve the shoulder whole at the table for people to help themselves, with the dressing.
The creamy curry: Lamb pasanda with dal
Pasanda is such a comforting curry and appeals to all palates – rich, delicious and exotic, but also very mild and accessible. If you can manage to organise an overnight marinade then great, otherwise a couple of hours or so will suffice.
Serves 4-6
350g slow-cooked lamb shoulder, cut into thin slices
2 onions, finely sliced
6 green cardamom pods, crushed
4 whole cloves
½ small bunch coriander, roughly chopped
Olive oil, for cooking
For the marinade
200g yoghurt
1 tsp chilli powder
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp turmeric
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp ginger, grated
60g onion, chopped
1 tbsp tamarind concentrate
Salt and black pepper
Lemon juice, to taste
For the dal
200g chana dal (dried yellow split peas), rinsed until the water runs clear
2 shallots, finely sliced
2 green chillies, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp garam masala
Lemon juice, to taste
1 Combine the marinade ingredients, then cover the lamb with the mix and set aside for at least 2 hours.
2 Bring the lentils to the boil then cook until they have started to collapse – around 30-45 minutes. Meanwhile, gently fry the shallots, chilli, garlic and cumin in a little oil for 10 minutes, or until the shallots have caramelised.
3 When the lentils are soft, add the shallot mix, turmeric and garam masala along with some seasoning and lemon juice. Reserve and keep warm.
4 To make the curry, fry the onions, cardamom and cloves in oil over a medium heat until nicely caramelised. Layer in the lamb, cover with about 200ml water and season well. Bring to the boil, then turn to a simmer and cook until the liquid has reduced to a rich, sauce-like consistency. Turn off the heat and season to taste.
5 Sprinkle with coriander, serve with the dal, some yoghurt and fresh roti.
The wrap: Pulled lamb shoulder with pickled fennel and cabbage and flatbreads
It’s a myth that only pork can be pulled ... The pickled vegetables here are zingy and delicious – the perfect foil to the rich, fatty lamb.
Serves 4
250g slow-cooked lamb shoulder, fat and skin included
1 small red chilli, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
A handful of fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped
Olive oil, for cooking
Salt and black pepper
For the pickles
750ml white wine vinegar
½ tsp fennel seeds
10 peppercorns
1 star anise
250g caster sugar
1 small head of fennel, very finely sliced
½ small green cabbage, core removed, very finely sliced
To serve
4 flatbreads, warmed
Plain yoghurt
Harissa
1 First, make the pickles. Put the vinegar, spices and sugar in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Cook for 5 minutes and turn off the heat. Pour the liquor over the fennel and cabbage, then cover and set aside for at least 2 hours. They’ll keep for up to two weeks, covered and refrigerated.
2 Shred the lamb meat, fat and skin into a bowl, then season with salt and pepper. Add the chilli, garlic, coriander and a glug of olive oil.
3 Warm some oil in a frying pan over a high heat. Fry the lamb for a few minutes, turning as you go, until it has started to caramelise and is nice and hot.
4 Serve on warm flatbreads with a smear of thick natural yoghurt and a spoonful of harissa paste.
The hearty bowlful: Lamb shoulder, red wine and rosemary spezzatino
Spezzatino is essentially a rich-tomatoey meat casserole, usually made with pork. I think lamb works beautifully in it and I serve it tossed through with some delicious, light, pan-fried potato gnocchi.
Serves 4
Olive oil
400g cooked lamb shoulder, cut into rough chunks
1 tbsp plain flour
1 onion, peeled and diced
1 large carrot, diced
2 celery stalks, diced
3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
250ml red wine
500ml fresh lamb or chicken stock
1 x 400g tin chopped tomatoes
3 sprigs rosemary
250g gnocchi
Salt and black pepper
1 Heat a glug of oil in a frying pan or casserole dish over a medium heat. Add the lamb chunks, then fry for 3 minutes to brown all over. Stir in the flour and cook for a further 1 minute to lightly brown.
2 Add the vegetables and garlic, then brown for 3 minutes. Pour in the red wine and scrape the bottom of the pan to deglaze. Reduce the wine until almost evaporated. Add the stock, chopped tomatoes and rosemary and bring everything back to the boil before turning down to a simmer.
3 Cook for around 1 hour, skimming off any impurities that rise to the surface with a ladle as you go. The tomatoey sauce should have reduced to a rich, thick, gravy-like consistency. If it’s too thin, cook for 20 minutes longer.
4 Just before the casserole is ready, stir through the gnocchi and simmer for 3 minutes. Season to taste, then serve immediately.
- Ben Tish is chef/patron of the Salt Yard Group, whose latest restaurant is Ember Yard in London.
